Meet Our Makers: MAES London

This year marked a new turning point for Saywood: Our collections are now made in the UK. And with this, came a new partnership with MAES London, luxury garment manufacturer with expert craftsmanship.

It has been a pleasure working with MAES, and I see our partnership being a long lasting one. Based in North London, in Tottenham, on the 2nd floor of what is the most beautiful factory building inside.

Light pours in from the windows, and the panelling of the windows and large concrete space has a Bauhaus appeal to it, whilst the edges are trimmed with plants and greenery. Inside are the most beautiful works of fashion being stitched together. It truly is a magical space to be in.

MAES's panelled bright windows, seen in their factory at the time of manufacturing Saywood's Bessie A-line Shorts in Berry Red Stripe

Being in North London, MAES is also just down the road from the Saywood studio, so not only is it easy to visit MAES, but this helps Saywood keep our carbon footprint down, and it means we are directly supporting the local economy and local communities.

The people Saywood partner with are crucial. Not only could we not do this without them, but partnering with those who share our values is essential; to create sustainably, and most importantly, ethically, we partner with those who care about this too.

Diana Kakkar, the founder of MAES London, kindly chatted with me about what was behind her starting this amazing venture and and why sustainability and ethics were so important to the factory.

 

You founded MAES London in 2018. What was your vision behind launching MAES?

My vision for the company is driven by transparency and sustainability. My mission is to bridge the gap between luxury manufacturers with designers, by creating genuine connections and fostering a closer collaboration in the fashion industry.

Your earlier fashion career began as a designer and you had experience in product development, production and garment production, before you launched MAES London. What led you from here into luxury manufacturing?

My career started with a major in Economics and Statistics. I loved this as I love the study of data as it enables me to tell a story of a situation with numbers and trends.

I knew I wanted to work in creative industries - so instead of pursuing a MBA, I decided to enrol in India’s best Fashion Institute and thankfully was accepted on scholarship for 3 of the 4 years I studied there. 

The combination of Fashion and Economics has been the foundation of my career and I have built on this in every role I have taken on. 

Before starting MAES London, I was working with various brands facilitating their product development and production at various factories around the world. That’s when I realised there was a gap between manufacturers and designers. 

I didn’t want to set up a factory for mass fashion, but an aim to preserve craftsmanship and empower designers with a quality product, while retaining the luxury skill set in my team.

You are clearly passionate about transparency and ethical and sustainable manufacturing. What are your fundamentals when it comes to both ethical and sustainable manufacturing at MAES London?

Our approach to ethical and sustainable manufacturing is grounded in three key principles: responsibility, transparency, and collaboration. We prioritise fair labour practices, ensuring safe and respectful working conditions for all employees. Transparency is vital, as we maintain open communication about our processes and supply chains and practices. Lastly, we invest in relationships with our clients and create lasting partnerships. We are here to solve a problem for our clients.

By adhering to these fundamentals, we aim to create high-quality products that respect both people and the planet, setting a standard for ethical and sustainable manufacturing in our industry.

And what is important to you when partnering with brands and designers when it comes to these values (ethical and sustainable manufacturing)?

When partnering with brands and designers, it’s crucial that they align with our core values of Trust, Quality, Respect and Teamwork. We prioritise collaborations with those who are genuinely committed to ethical practices and environmental responsibility. Transparency is key; we value partners who are open about their processes and strive for continuous improvement. Creativity and a forward-thinking approach are also essential, as we aim to push boundaries and create meaningful, impactful work together. Ultimately, it’s about building relationships based on mutual respect and a shared vision for a positive future.

What are the most important areas that MAES London has implemented in order to manufacture in a more sustainable and environmentally friendly way? Does this affect the equipment or materials that you choose to use?

By choosing to have a London based operation, we are reducing the carbon footprint of the product that is being created. 

We are working in a building which is naturally well lit and stays regulated throughout the year (except for the 3 weeks of Summer when London copes with the heat).

To be honest, a small batch manufacturer like us doesn’t have control on the extended supply chain - so we have to rely on our designers to make Eco-conscious choices, like deadstock fabric, natural fabrics, low-waste designs, in order for us to support them in their sustainable goals.

However, a large scale manufacturer who does FOB may have a diverse supply chain, and it is here that one needs to do due diligence to understand the carbon footprint of their processes. This may apply to domestic and international manufacturers.

What has been the biggest challenge to change from the manufacturing perspective?

The current global situation significantly impacts fashion manufacturers. Supply chain disruptions, geo-political unrest, rising raw material costs, and logistical challenges have created hurdles.

Additionally, the economic downturn has led to reduced consumer spending, forcing brands to adjust their production volumes. However, this has also accelerated the industry's shift towards sustainability and digitalisation, with manufacturers investing in eco-friendly materials and advanced technologies. The fashion sector is navigating these challenges by embracing innovation and agility to meet changing consumer demands and maintain resilience in an unpredictable market.

However this comes at huge costs to manufacturers, so sometimes small scale manufacturing and large investments don’t go hand in hand. It is a conundrum most sustainability experts are trying to solve.

For us some challenges in the past 5 years have been:

Brexit: Brexit has introduced several significant challenges for manufacturers, particularly those with operations and supply chains spanning the UK and the EU.

Customs and Border Delays: Increased customs checks and new border controls have led to delays, disrupting the timely delivery of materials and finished goods. Increased costs around deliveries and taxes.

Cost Increases: Additional costs from customs declarations, certifications, and potential tariffs can affect the profitability and pricing of goods.

Uncertainty and Planning: Ongoing economic uncertainty and recent changes in the fashion industry (Matches Collapse) makes long-term planning difficult, affecting investment and strategic decisions.

What does it mean to MAES to be a socially responsible and ethical manufacturer?

Being a socially responsible and ethical manufacturer involves prioritising sustainable practices, fair labour, and transparency. We focus on reducing our environmental footprint through eco-friendly materials and efficient processes. Ensuring fair wages and safe working conditions for our employees is crucial. Additionally, we maintain transparency with our stakeholders and customers about our practices and supply chains. By integrating these principles into our operations, we not only contribute to the well-being of our communities and the environment but also build trust and long-term success.

Ethical manufacturing is not just a responsibility, but a commitment to future generations.

Sustainability is a promise that is not optional but a must have in every business’s agenda.

What do you love about manufacturing garments and working with the brands/ designers?

I am a geek about product development. I acknowledge that my role has changed in the company over the past few years, but anytime I can get stuck in a product discussion I will.

It is creative, collaborative and loads of problem solving and project management. Things that I enjoy.

However, lately my role is more on strategy and understanding the challenges designers and brands have around manufacturing their collection in the right place, right price and right time.

There is a resurgence in British manufacturing. Do you believe this is important in terms of quality, transparency, and our wider understanding of how things are manufactured, and why?

Absolutely, local manufacturing is crucial. It ensures higher quality due to stringent local standards and oversight. Transparency improves as consumers can easily verify production practices, fostering trust and accountability. Additionally, local manufacturing enhances our understanding of the processes involved, promoting education and innovation within the community. It also supports local economies, reduces environmental impact from transportation, and ensures more sustainable practices. Overall, it’s about creating a responsible and informed supply chain that benefits both producers and consumers, while contributing to economic resilience and sustainability.

Local manufacturing is good for the environment, good for the economy and good for the product.

Do you believe this could have a positive affect on the wider fashion industry and how we manufacture globally?

Revitalising British manufacturing can positively impact the wider fashion industry and global manufacturing in several ways:

Setting Higher Standards: British manufacturing's emphasis on quality, transparency, and ethical practices can set a benchmark for the global fashion industry. As more brands prioritise these values, it can drive improvements in production standards worldwide.

Promoting Sustainability: A focus on local manufacturing can encourage more sustainable practices, such as reducing carbon footprints and supporting ethical labour conditions. This shift can inspire global manufacturers to adopt similar sustainable approaches.

Consumer Awareness: As consumers become more aware of where and how their clothes are made, there can be a broader demand for transparency and ethical practices, influencing global brands to align with these expectations.

Economic Impact: Strengthening local industries can have positive economic effects, creating jobs and supporting communities. This model can inspire other regions to invest in their own manufacturing capabilities, leading to a more balanced and resilient global economy.

How would you like to see the fashion industry change in the next ten years, with a particular interest in the global health of the planet and the way people are treated within the industry?

In the next ten years, I expect the fashion industry has evolved to make sustainability and ethical practices a mandate.

Global Digital passport will enforce transparency in the supply chain making brands and manufacturers responsible towards the planet and the people.

Addressing the global health of our planet, we need to shift towards eco-friendly materials, reduce waste, and adopt circular economy principles. Brands should commit to transparency, ensuring every stage of production is environmentally responsible. 

Designers would be finding ways of creativity without making physical products that are not circular. There will be legislation around waste reduction.

Furthermore, the treatment of workers must significantly improve. Fair wages, safe working conditions, and respect for labour rights are non-negotiable. 

The industry will champion inclusivity, diversity, and equity, celebrating diverse cultures and identities. Embracing innovation and technology will be key, from sustainable fabrics to efficient manufacturing processes, minimising environmental impact. 

By fostering collaboration between designers, manufacturers, and consumers, we can create a fashion ecosystem that respects both people and the planet, paving the way for a more ethical and sustainable future.

What is next for MAES’s journey as a responsible manufacturer and your ambitions for the future?

While I am very ambitious and passionate about the industry, the harsh reality is running a Fashion Manufacturing business in London is very expensive. 

My commitment to the growth of the industry is second to the commitment to my team, so I am bunkering down on the sustainable growing of MAES London. I am aiming to work with more independent designers who are serving direct to consumer clients, and empowering them with a local supply chain here in the UK.

We want to be known as the best luxury manufacturer in the U.K who not only deliver quality products on time, on spec and on budget but also help brands grow their business in order to contribute to the overall UK economy.

 

I can certainly attest to that. MAES have been a dream to work with as a manufacturing partner; their quality is beautiful, their team always look happy, and their production team and such kind and friendly people, as is Diana herself. To be able to partner with people like this is what every designer wants.

MAES have made some of your favourite pieces, including the Amelia Trousers in pink corduroy and black organic cotton and linen, as well as the Bessie Shorts and new Rosa Dresses launching September 2024, and I am ever grateful to all the work the MAES team does for Saywood.

If you would like to learn more about MAES you can view MAES London's website here, and read more from their journal and about their ethical manufacturing here.

 

These beautiful images documenting MAES London's production of Saywood were shot by Jannine Newman (Instagram: @underthecloth)